The evaluation of the dyeing performance of Bixa orellana (annatto) on cotton and polyester fabrics

Jamaludin, Nur Atiqah and Ramya, Razanah and Othman, Rashidi and Mat Ali, Qurratu Aini (2025) The evaluation of the dyeing performance of Bixa orellana (annatto) on cotton and polyester fabrics. In: A Design Odyssey in the Built Environment: Functionality, Aesthetics and Heritage. Nova Science Publishers, Inc., NEW YORK, pp. 57-71. ISBN 9798895307656

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Abstract

The use of synthetic dyes in the textile industry has raised environmental concerns due to their harmful chemicals and poor biodegradability. The aim of this study was to determine the key factors that affect the lightness (colour change) of annatto-dyed cotton and polyester fabrics. Post mordanting was used with four types of mordants, namely, potassium alum (KAl(SO₄)₂), iron (II) sulphate (FeSO₄), copper (III) sulphate (CuSO₄), and sodium metasilicate (Na₂SiO₃), at dye concentrations of 10, 20, and 30 g/L. The dyed fabrics were tested under light conditions (LC) and dark conditions (DC) over four weeks. Colour measurements were taken weekly using the CIELab system to assess the yellow intensity (b*), saturation (S), and colour difference (ΔE*ab). The results showed that KAl(SO₄)₂ gave the best colour stability in DC for both fabrics, while FeSO₄ was more effective under LC for polyester, and CuSO₄ and Na₂SiO₃ performed poorly, showing a higher ΔE*ab and fading. Higher dye concentrations helped to maintain colour better than lower concentrations. In conclusion, the type of mordant, dye concentration, and light exposure are key to improving the colour stability of annatto dye, and it is recommended that KAl(SO₄)₂ be used for indoor textiles and FeSO₄ for fabrics exposed to light. Future research should explore natural bio-mordants to make the dyeing even more sustainable.

Item Type:	Book Chapter
Uncontrolled Keywords:	natural dye, annatto, cotton, polyester, mordant, chromaticity, carotenoid
Subjects:	BPC Science and Technology in Islam N Fine Arts T Technology > TP Chemical technology T Technology > TP Chemical technology > TP248.13 Biotechnology T Technology > TP Chemical technology > TP890 Textile dyeing and printing T Technology > TP Chemical technology > TP934 Paints, pigments, varnishes, etc
Kulliyyahs/Centres/Divisions/Institutes (Can select more than one option. Press CONTROL button):	Kulliyyah of Architecture and Environmental Design > Department of Landscape Architecture Kulliyyah of Architecture and Environmental Design
Depositing User:	Dr rashidi othman
Date Deposited:	06 Feb 2026 15:39
Last Modified:	06 Feb 2026 15:39
Queue Number:	2026-01-Q2026
URI:	http://irep.iium.edu.my/id/eprint/127283

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