Dual fermentation of silk yarn and hibiscus rosa-sinensis dye extract for enhanced colour strength and intensity in silk dyeing

Kamaruzzaman, Puteri Arina Amni and Wan Mohd Juhari, Wan Azwin Idayu and Wan Abdul Khodir, Wan Khartini and Abdul Jalal, Ahmad Farid and Abd Hamid, Shafida (2026) Dual fermentation of silk yarn and hibiscus rosa-sinensis dye extract for enhanced colour strength and intensity in silk dyeing. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 51 (1). pp. 144-153. ISSN 0971-0426 E-ISSN 0975-1025

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Abstract

Natural dyes offer an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic dyes, but their broader use in textiles is constrained by low dye uptake and poor colour fastness. The effect of fermenting both silk yarn and Hibiscus rosa-sinensis dye extract on colour performance has not been systematically studied. This study examines the effects of fermentation pre-treatment on the dyeing performance of silk yarn dyed with H. rosa-sinensis flower extract. Two strategies were employed: pre-treatment of silk yarn with yeast, alum, or a combination of both, and fermentation of the flower extracts using symplocos or alum immersion. Dyed samples were evaluated for colour intensity (C*) and colour strength (K/S) using spectrocolourimetric methods. The highest colour intensity (C* = 26.65) and colour strength (K/S = 15.03) were obtained using yeast-fermented silk yarn dyed with alum-assisted dye extract, indicating enhanced dye penetration and fixation. Post-dyeing fixation with tannin and N-cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB), although intended to improve fastness, reduced the colour intensity, likely due to competitive binding or electrostatic repulsion with anthocyanins. Fermentation appears to promote structural or chemical changes in both fibre and dye, improving dye affinity and stability. The combined fermentation of yarn and extract presents a promising method for enhancing the natural silk dyeing performance.

Item Type:	Article (Journal)
Uncontrolled Keywords:	Anthocyanin pigments, Dye–fibre interactions, Microbial fermentation, Natural colourants, Sustainable dyeing
Subjects:	Q Science > QD Chemistry
Kulliyyahs/Centres/Divisions/Institutes (Can select more than one option. Press CONTROL button):	Kulliyyah of Science > Department of Chemistry Kulliyyah of Science
Depositing User:	Dr Shafida Abd Hamid
Date Deposited:	24 Apr 2026 09:58
Last Modified:	24 Apr 2026 09:58
Queue Number:	2026-04-Q2936
URI:	http://irep.iium.edu.my/id/eprint/128461

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